Why mango sticky rice is one of Thailand’s most beloved summer dishes

Thailand boasts over 200 varieties of mangoes, but when it comes to creating one of the country’s most cherished desserts, khao nieow mamuang (mango sticky rice), only a few types are considered ideal.

This beloved dish consists of perfectly ripe mango slices placed beside a mound of glutinous rice, topped with a coconut-based cream sauce and a sprinkle of yellow mung beans. Despite its simplicity, it’s a dessert that offers a harmonious blend of flavors and textures. And no one does it better than 63-year-old Varee Jeensuwan, widely regarded as the queen of mango sticky rice in Bangkok.

Her shop, Mae Varee, located in the bustling Thonglor neighborhood, has been serving up this iconic dessert since 1981.

“The best dessert during summertime in Thailand is mango and sticky rice,” Varee says. “The mangoes are naturally sweet, plentiful, and affordable from March to May. The sticky rice also has an aromatic freshness during this time.”

The most popular variety used for mango sticky rice is Thailand’s nam dok mai (flower of the water) mango, known for its sweet flavor and smooth texture. Varee mentions that some of the best nam dok mai mangoes are grown in Bangkhla district in Chacheonseo province. Another variety is Oak Rong, which comes from Damnoen Saduak district in Ratchaburi province, although it’s rarer and only available in limited months.

“Most foreigners don’t know about Oak Rong. It’s primarily famous among Thais, while many are more familiar with Nam Dok Mai,” she says.

While mangoes take the spotlight in this dish, Varee insists that the other ingredients are just as essential. Her shop uses sticky rice sourced from Chiang Rai in the north, coconuts from Suratthani in the south, and mung beans that are baked for a slight crunch. Even the salt in her coconut cream comes from Samut Sakorn province.

Mae Varee attracts a diverse clientele, serving both locals and tourists. “Most of my foreign customers come from China, Hong Kong, and Singapore,” she adds. “They often check in on social media when they visit. They say, ‘If we’re in Thailand and didn’t check-in, we’re not really here.'”

The “Milli Effect” is another phenomenon that helped boost the popularity of mango sticky rice. In 2022, Thai rapper Milli made waves at the Coachella music festival by enjoying a bowl of mango sticky rice on stage. This moment sparked a nationwide craving in Thailand, with delivery drivers flocking to the most popular mango sticky rice shops to satisfy the demand.

Among those who benefited from this surge in popularity is K Panich, a historic purveyor of mango sticky rice since 1932. Located just a short walk from the Grand Palace, this family-run business has earned Michelin’s Bib Gourmand award every year since 2019 for offering high-quality food at great value.

“We focus on sourcing the best raw ingredients from all over Thailand,” says Khun Nan, a manager at K Panich. The shop even sells uncut Nam Dok Mai mangoes to customers outside, offering a taste of Thailand’s summer in every bite.

While mango sticky rice is commonly found as street food, it also graces the menus of high-end restaurants, often with creative twists. For example, R-Haan, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Bangkok, offers a unique version of mango sticky rice, serving it as a parfait with three types of mango, sticky rice, and coconut ice cream.

Chef Chumpol Jangprai, co-owner of R-Haan, says the dish likely dates back to the late Ayutthaya period (1351-1767), with early references to “khao niew moon,” or glutinous rice with sweetened coconut milk. Mangoes, although not native to Thailand, have been cultivated here for centuries, and their natural sweetness pairs perfectly with the sticky rice.

Despite its modern popularity, mango sticky rice reflects Thailand’s rich culinary history, combining traditional flavors with available ingredients to create a beloved dessert that transcends generations.

If you’re inspired to make it at home, R-Haan has even shared a detailed mango sticky rice recipe on its website.