The world’s most elaborate and expensive cowboy boots

The only thing that Paris in France and Paris in Texas seem to share these days? Cowboy boots — and lots of them. Once seen mainly on ranchers or in Western films, these iconic boots have now stomped their way into the world of high fashion. From Jimi Hendrix and Bruce Springsteen to Kendrick Lamar, cowboy boots have long symbolized a rebellious, effortlessly cool attitude. And now, thanks to Beyoncé’s country-inspired album Cowboy Carter and Taylor Swift’s glittering Western outfits, cowboy boots are bigger than ever — and for everyone.

While the cowboy boot has always had its place in fashion, today luxury labels are putting their spin on it. Big names like Celine and Louboutin are designing their own pairs. Searches for cowboy boots on Net-a-Porter have shot up by 250% in the last six months. In the U.S., classic bootmaker Lucchese, founded in 1883, has grown by 30%. Even newer brands like Tecovas are riding the wave, helped by shows like Yellowstone and stars like Post Malone. Some, like Tres Outlaws, go all-out — one of their handcrafted pairs, adorned with silver and gold coins, sold for $75,000. Bridal cowboy boots are also booming, with brands like Miron Crosby jumping on the trend.

At the heart of this revival is craftsmanship. The best cowboy boots still come from makers who build them entirely by hand. One such place is Rocketbuster Handmade Custom Boots in El Paso, Texas, run by designer Nevena Christi. Her husband Marty Snortum founded it in 1989, and since then, the shop has drawn big-name clients like Kendrick Lamar, Jane Fonda, and Dior designer Victoire de Castellane.

Their boots, which range from $1,300 to $15,000, are nothing short of wearable art. Think designs painted to resemble tree bark, detailed floral embroidery, snakes winding around initials, and even a Star Wars tribute pair—one for R2-D2, the other for C-3PO. With only around 350 pairs made each year, the wait time can range from three months to three years. “I just have to have a rock star mentality and say, ‘Sorry, this is how long it takes,’” says Christi. At a 2022 event in Las Vegas, even Arnold Schwarzenegger lined up early to get his hands on a pair.

What makes Rocketbuster so special is their dedication to detail. Every heel is made from hand-stacked leather with 100 lemonwood pegs — no plastic, no shortcuts. Christi, a fine art graduate and former design director at Nicole Miller, sees each boot as a legacy item. “There are boots on our shelves that are over 100 years old,” she says proudly.

Another legendary maker is Lee Miller of Texas Traditions in Austin. He learned the craft under the late Charlie Dunn — a man often called the Picasso of bootmaking. Miller, who’s been at it for 50 years, now leads a small team creating boots for everyone from Hollywood stars to bankers. While they aim to produce about 100 pairs a year, the waiting list is long. Prices start at $3,800 and can climb to $10,000 for more intricate designs using rare leathers.

For Miller, the perfect boot doesn’t have to be flashy. “It just has to look cool,” he says. He also restores historic boots, including those by Willie Lusk — a trailblazing Black bootmaker known as the “Texas King of Cowboy Boots,” who made footwear for Ronald Reagan and Betty White. Every restoration is a chance to learn the secrets of past masters.

Cowboy boots were originally made for function — easy to slip into stirrups, protective against terrain, and quick to put on. That practicality still matters today. As customers age or change sizes (often due to weight loss medications like Ozempic), custom boots can be resized and adjusted. Miller’s workshop often gets boots back in for fine-tuning.

Luckily, this tradition shows no signs of fading. Both Christi and Miller have found young apprentices eager to learn the craft. “All you need is good hands and a little OCD,” laughs Christi. Designers from Switzerland, Japan, and France have even traveled to Texas Traditions to learn the trade.

Cowboy boots are booming globally, too. In the UK, designer Penelope Chilvers creates limited-edition boots made in family-run Spanish factories. She draws on the roots of cowboy style — which actually trace back to Spanish leather tooling and equestrian gear. In London, shops like Jessie Western in Notting Hill and Hey Cowboy! in Shoreditch offer handmade or vintage versions sourced from the U.S.

Despite political divides and cultural shifts, cowboy boots seem to unite people with a shared sense of nostalgia and Americana. As Christi puts it, slipping into a pair just makes you feel good: “No matter what chaos is going on in America, everyone will always love rock’n’roll and cowboy boots.”