Chanel’s latest creation, the “Kiss Me” timepiece, is an elegant blend of beauty and functionality. Encased in a sleek, lacquered rectangle, this watch features 20 baguette-cut yellow beryls set in gold. Suspended from a golden chain, the design initially resembles a lipstick. But with a simple click, the case opens to reveal a hidden watch dial, transforming it into a unique piece of jewelry. The “Kiss Me” watch is part of Chanel’s new capsule collection, unveiled at the Watches and Wonders trade fair in Geneva this April. The collection also includes “Protect Me,” an amulet-like pendant that reimagines the evil eye through Coco Chanel’s signature kohl-lined gaze, and “Give Me Luck,” a talismanic necklace adorned with rubellite cabochons and pink tourmalines arranged in a Byzantine motif. Both of these pendants, when twisted, reveal hidden watch dials.
Chanel’s innovative design blurs the line between jewelry and timekeeping. At first glance, it’s not immediately obvious that it’s a watch, adding a modern, intriguing element to the traditional watch market. This move is in line with a broader trend in luxury timepieces, as designers experiment with unconventional forms. For instance, Taylor Swift made headlines when she wore a custom Lorraine Schwartz watch choker to the Grammy Awards, showcasing a new way to wear timepieces that emphasizes individuality and uniqueness.
The Watches and Wonders trade fair highlighted several such pieces. Van Cleef & Arpels introduced a diamond-studded version of its Cadenas watch, which resembles a padlock bracelet at first glance. “It’s not immediately clear it’s a watch, and that’s what makes it modern and exciting,” said Rainer Bernard, head of research and development at Van Cleef & Arpels. Cartier also unveiled the Panthère jewelry watches, featuring a panther mid-pounce, with a discreet watch dial revealed when tilted.
Cartier’s Tank à Guichets, a minimalistic design, features no traditional dial or hands. Instead, two small apertures display the time using digits, making it another example of the brand’s innovation in watchmaking. These avant-garde designs reflect the evolving tastes of today’s watch collectors, especially among women and Gen Z.
Pendant and brooch watches are also making a comeback. Once popular in the 1920s, these timepieces are now gaining traction due to their appeal to women and their versatility. Chanel’s revamped Première watch features a long gold and leather chain that can be worn as both a necklace and a bracelet. Piaget’s new pendant watch collection showcases ruby-root beads and gold chains, emphasizing both nostalgia and modern design.
At Watches and Wonders, Van Cleef & Arpels introduced pendant watches featuring vibrant colored gems like turquoise and lapis lazuli. Dior also joined the trend with its Gem Dior pendant watches, using malachite and aragonite for a playful, elegant look. Hermès, known for its iconic anchor chain motif, transformed this design into a sculptural brooch watch, offering multiple ways to wear it.
These innovations show that watches are no longer limited to traditional wrist-worn timepieces. With creativity and craftsmanship, luxury brands are redefining how we wear time, making watches more than just functional objects — they are now statements of style and individuality.
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